Unpacking the Cultural Significance of Fall/Winter 2021’s Biggest Fashion Trends

FW 21

Mar 29

It’s evident from the Fall/Winter 2021 season’s biggest trends that things are changing in the fashion industry. These long-overdue changes mark both a regression and an evolution, pushing fashion forward where it has long needed to be pushed and correcting (or at least attempting to correct) the countless mistakes it’s made thus far.

Citing environmental concerns and creative burnout as the culprit, from emerging designers to top-name luxury houses, everyone is cutting back their annual output significantly. Since the beginning of the pandemic, a growing number of brands have ditched the conventional fashion calendar and done away with unnecessary in-between seasons like Pre-Fall and Resort. In May 2020, Gucci announced it would be abandoning traditional fashion seasons entirely, opting for seasonless biannual shows instead. Around the same time, the British Fashion Council announced it would be merging London’s Men’s and Women’s Fashion Weeks into one genderless platform.

Thanks to wider global resets around race, gender, and body diversity, the fashion industry has also been forced to own up to its notoriously exclusionary past. As a result, the past few seasons’ runways have been more diverse than ever before. Black designers, models, and artists who were overlooked in the past are finally beginning to receive the recognition they deserve. Look no further than Telfar, Christopher John Rogers, or Paloma Elsesser for proof.

While it’s easy to attribute these shifts to the pandemic’s widespread social and economic effects, the desire for change was mounting for quite some time before. Covid-19 just happened to forcibly push the reset button.

It’s become clear that looking back, the early 2020s will be considered an inflection point, not just for fashion but for the broader cultural narrative it reflects. That’s why it’s crucial to take a closer look at the fall fashion trends that emerge during this notable turning point and question what they say about who we are and what we care about.

And if the upcoming Fall/Winter 2021 fashion trends said anything, it’s the importance of creativity, connection, and comfort.

Here are the most important fashion trends of the Fall/Winter 2021 season, and what they say about the world we live in today.

Cottagecore Couture

As Gen Z’s economic power grows, so does the need to please their social-media-driven fashion tastes. And no fall fashion trend encompasses the influence of young social media users quite like Tik-Tok’s infamous cottagecore fashion movement.

If you’re unfamiliar with the latest -core (and as you’ll soon see, there are many), let me explain. During the uptick in social media usage during the early days of the pandemic, ‘grandmillennial style’ went viral. Seemingly overnight, Tik-Tok and Instagram feeds were flooded with serene garden picnics, strawberry-print dresses, and sustainable living tips. Now, just over a year later, the hashtag #cottagecore has nearly 6 billion views on Tik-Tok.

While the flowing dresses and homemade baked goods make for great influencer content, what cottagecore is really about is slowing down, reconnecting with nature, and enjoying the little pleasures in life. But under the prairie dresses, flower crowns, and frilly blouses, lies a deeper sense of longing for simpler times— ones that Gen Z never had the chance to experience during their lifetimes.

Maxi Dresses

Granny-style maxi dresses, a cornerstone of cottagecore style, were spotted on the fall runways of Acne Studios, Anna Sui, Batsheva, and Y/Project. Most featured the ditsy florals, lace detailing, ruffle trim, and high collars the cottagecore community is known for. It was clear from their relaxed silhouettes and simple cotton poplin fabrics that these dresses were designed with everyday life in mind.

Fair Isle Sweaters

Like most cottagecore clothing, Fair Isle sweaters— distinguished by multi-colored bands of geometric patterns— aren’t exactly trendy. But this season, they were one of the most popular knitwear styles for fall.

Both men’s and womenswear collections offered chic updates of the traditional Scottish knit with modern silhouettes, fabrications, and styling. At Chanel, they were cropped. At Molly Goddard, they were paired with plaid. And at Junya Watanabe, they offered a cold-weather friendly alternative to graphic tees.

Clogs

Over the past few seasons, clogs have steadily made a comeback. And according to the Fall 2021 runways of Miu Miu, Salvatore Ferragamo, Veronica Beard, and more, they’re here to stay.

Continuing the spring footwear trend started by Louis Vuitton, many designers abandoned traditional wood-soled leather clogs for more experimental alternatives. At Acne Studios and Tory Burch, ponyhair and lug-sole clogs were styled with scrunched fuzzy socks and oversized outerwear for a 2021 take on the 70s staple.

Crafty Cardigans

Whether out of boredom, intrigue, or a nosedive towards pandemic-induced insanity, you probably picked up a few new hobbies during Lockdown. For some, it was bread making. Others, puzzles. But for many, it was crocheting.

After Harry Styles’ patchwork JW Anderson cardigan went viral last spring, countless Tik-Tokers tried making one of their own. Moved by fans’ resourcefulness, designer Jonathan Anderson released the complete pattern along with detailed instructions and videos to ensure success. The rainbow-colored cardigan and its many replicas garnered so much attention online that London’s Victoria & Albert Museum acquired the original for their coveted fashion wing, calling it a "cultural phenomenon that speaks to the power of creativity and social media in bringing people together in times of extreme adversity."

This season, designers like Batsheva, Coach, Staud, and The Elder Statesman carried on the crafty trend. Their homespun shawls, Granny square cardigans, and ugly-chic knits made the ideal companion for frilly dresses and grungy maxi skirts.

Priority #1: Comfort

Spending most of the last eighteen months in stretch pants has been quite a freeing experience for me. And clearly, many others felt the same.

For many people, women, in particular, last year’s lockdowns were the first time they finally let themselves just be. A Spanx-free, makeup-less year later and a few pounds heavier, I’ve gained a new appreciation for both my body and the clothing I put on it. This season’s generous cuts and stretchy knits perfectly embody our renewed sense of self-love.

Long deprived of the ability to hug, kiss, cuddle, and drunkenly grind on other people after too much tequila, fall’s tactile fabrics provided the next best thing to human touch. As I wait impatiently to hit the dancefloor again, this season’s luxurious faux fur, suede shearling, and super-fine cashmere will do just fine for now.

Knit Sets

For their Fall 2021 collections, many designers found the sweet spot between comfort and sophistication through knit sets. Nearly every major label offered some combination of knit pants, sweaters, tees, skirts, and tanks. As Joseph Altuzarra put it, “Comfort, but make it fashion.”

Though some opted for maximalist prints and colors, a surprising number chose to keep things simple. At Altuzarra, Cult Gaia, and Proenza Schouler, simple knit tops and maxi skirts were elevated with monochrome earth tones and quirky accessories. A-Cold-Wall*, Dries Van Noten, and Ermenegildo Zegna utilized similar styling techniques on the men’s side.

Shearling Lined Sandals

Birkenstocks are back and comfier than ever thanks to one of Fall 2021’s biggest shoe trends: shearling-lined sandals. Similar to the kangaroo fur-lined Gucci loafers from the days of yore, these plush slides offer the comfort of a slipper and the style of a Brooklyn cool girl.

In addition to the shearling-lined Birkenstock-style sandals at Ambush, Coach, and Staud, Altuzarra offered fur-trimmed lace-up sandals with pearl embellishments.

Robe Coats

According to street-savvy labels like Louis Vuitton and MSGM, robe coats are a major streetwear trend for fall. Just like your go-to terrycloth bathrobe, this fall’s silhouette features an oversized shawl collar, hip pockets, and a thick waist tie. Stay simple with Louis Vuitton’s caramel and cream-colored wool coats or go bold in Fendi’s quilted pastel pink and blue robes.

Layering Turtlenecks

Lightweight turtlenecks are this fall’s must-have layering item. In menswear, they often replaced stiff button-ups under suits at Dior Men, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jil Sander. They were also worn under crew-neck sweaters and cardigans at Fendi and Prada.

And for women, try layering yours under oversized blazers like Longchamp, Stella McCartney or tank top dresses à la Erdem and Versace.

The Bridgerton Effect

The Internet is calling it “The Bridgerton Effect:” a renaissance of romance novels and Regency fashion with a classic 21st-century twist. Thankfully, unlike the all-white historical romances of the past, Bridgerton offers a more diverse perspective on escapist television. According to Netflix viewership records, the Gossip Girl-style historical drama is the streaming platform’s most-watched series ever, with a global audience of over 82 million people.

The effects of Bridgerton’s widespread viewership quickly spread to social media, spurring (surprise, surprise) a "Regencycore” fashion movement on Tik-Tok. In response, designers focused their fall eveningwear around corset-topped gowns, elbow-length gloves, and jeweled headpieces fit for a debutante like Daphne Bridgerton herself.

When it came to menswear, the Bridgerton Effect felt like a natural evolution of the emerging soft boy movement. Fall/Winter 2021’s poet blouses, high-rise trousers, and military-inspired suits will fit beautifully in the wardrobes of Timothee Chalamet, Harry Styles, and the like.

Romantic Red Carpet Dresses

Bridgerton-inspired dresses are a key red carpet trend for 2021. Think puff-sleeves, off-the-shoulder necklines, romantic draping, and waist-cinching corset tops and bustiers. Lady-like embellished dresses with ankle-length hems were seen at Alice + Oliva, Giambattista Valli, Prabal Gurung, and Simone Rocha.

Soft Boy Suits

Men’s formalwear is in the midst of a major transformation— or at least it was until Covid hit. Remember Harry Styles’ nipple-height pants at the Met Gala? Michael B Jordan’s floral Louis Vuitton harness? And we certainly mustn’t forget Timothee Chalamet’s silver Haider Ackermann suit.

If these looks have taught us anything, it’s that straight men are no longer sticking to boring slim tailoring on the red carpet. Personally, I can’t wait to see which Man Snacks end up sporting the modern looks from Dior Men, Dries Van Noten, and Wales Bonner’s fall collections.

Long Gloves

Call it The Bridgerton Effect or just call it germophobia; gloves were one of the biggest accessory trends of the Fall/Winter 2021 season. Erdem, Givenchy, Lanvin, Moschino, Prada, Raf Simons, and Versace accessorized their collections with dramatic silk opera gloves, cashmere elbow-length gloves, or leather driving gloves.

High Ruffle Collars

This fall’s Victorian-inspired blouses and dresses piggybacked on the success of Bridgerton’s romantic 19th-century fashion. Ruffle neck blouses and high-collared dresses were seen at Alberta Ferretti, Comme des Garçons, Isabel Marant, Paco Rabanne, Thom Browne, and Valentino. To balance out the formal top, style it with ripped baggy jeans, one of 2021’s biggest denim trends.

Après Ski Bunnies

The Fall/Winter 2021 season came on the heels of the grail-worthy North Face x Gucci collab. In their first collaborative collection, the two fashion giants came together “in celebration of the spirit of exploration,” creating logo-covered gorpcore that looks just as chic sported during a shopping trip in Beverly Hills as it does on the ski slopes of Aspen.

While the past few seasons of streetwear focused more on hiking-inspired technical outwear, this season’s down-filled looks also drew inspiration from winter sports like skiing. And for those who prefer to stay inside, there were plenty of après-ski looks for socially-distanced cocktails in the lodge.

Additionally, the sporty winter trend also reflected our renewed appreciation for Mother Nature and for the leisure activities that offered a moment of peace and solitude during last winter’s pandemic peak. To avoid holing up in city apartments, many designers fled their respective fashion capitals for quieter countryside abodes and mountainous Airbnb’s. Unlike traditional outdoor apparel, the resulting ski bibs, fur moon boots, and rib-knit long johns are anything but boring.

Ski Suits

Some designers took the skiwear trend quite literally. For his Fall/Winter 2021 fashion film, Thom Browne enlisted the help of professional skier and three-time Olympic medalist, Lindsey Vonn, to showcase his winter sports-inspired eveningwear. The opening down-filled dress offered a black-tie take on Moncler 1 Pierpaolo Piccioli’s puffer gowns.

The chic ski suits and bib overalls at Miu Miu and Chanel will certainly be making a reappearance during the Kardashian family trip to Aspen.

Fur Boots & Heels

While the furry moon boots and heels at Chanel, Miu Miu, and Nina Ricci aren’t the most practical for wet winter weather, they sure are cute as hell for working at home. For a more wearable take, try the fur-trimmed mules at Alyx or the fuzzy pumps at Fendi.

Long Johns

While knit sets and unitards are now an Instagram-era mainstay on women’s runways, they’ve only recently emerged on the men’s side. “I want people to be able to take things that they see on the runway and have them be wearable,” said A-Cold-Wall*’s Samuel Ross on his label’s rib-knit loungewear.

Thankfully, A-Cold-Wall*, Fendi, Givenchy, and Prada’s long johns and cozy knit coveralls offer an equally-comfortable alternative to sweatpants.

Shearling Bags

Fur accessories have popped up here and there over the past few winter seasons, each time with a slightly new variation. This season’s furry accessory of choice: shearling handbags.

Fuzzy purses were seen at Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Longchamp, Prada, Sportmax, and Staud. For maximum versatility and longevity, opt for bags with a basic color and shape like the simple sherpa totes at Boss or the plush shoulder bags at Tod’s.

All Things Leather

For many fashion labels, the pandemic offered the perfect opportunity to reevaluate the environmental impact of their designs. Between travel restrictions, lockdowns, and growing calls for sustainability, it was time to create less and create it better. This season, one wasteful textile, in particular, received a much-needed makeover: leather.

While leather textiles traditionally posed a number of ethical and environmental questions, this season’s sustainable leathers and vegan leather alternatives provided the answers. Designers using upcycled and deadstock leather, eco-friendly vegetable tanning techniques, and innovative leather alternatives.

As millennials and Gen Z gain a growing share of economic power, consumer demands for fashion are beginning to change. Instead of falling prey to short-lived fast fashion trends, shoppers are intentionally seeking out sustainable fashion brands for investment pieces they’ll keep for years to come. This season’s leather pieces fell into two categories: minimalist basics in timeless cuts or splurge-worthy statement pieces with undoubtedly high resale value.

Leather Trench Coats

Though leather coats of all kinds stormed this season’s runways, the classic trench coat emerged as this season’s stand-out leather jacket silhouette. If you stick to basic black or brown opt for a sleek oversized cut or eye-catching patent finish like coats at Gabriela Hearst, Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Versace, Vetements, and Y/Project.

Leather Pants

During times of unrest and uncertainty, fashion often looks to rebellious subcultures as a source of inspiration. Stuck indoors alone during Lockdown, it only makes sense that designers dreamt of wide-open spaces and the freedom of motorcycle culture when designing their fall collections. Leather pants at LaQuan Smith, Loewe, and Marine Serre featured leather-inspired details like buckles, studs, and patchwork leather.

Leather Dresses

Unlike the skin-tight leather dresses recently shown by Alexander Wang and Saint Laurent, this fall’s leather dresses were focused on comfort and practicality. The shifts at Hermès and The Row were ideal for layered office outfits. Leather pinafore dresses at Christian Dior and coat-like cuts at Alaïa felt both rebellious and refined when paired with coordinating leather combat boots.

Leather Blazers

Leather blazers were having a moment pre-pandemic and they seem to have bounced back just fine for Fall 2021. Unlike the bold-colored leather blazers on the spring runways of Off-White and Hermès, this season’s lapeled leather coats were far more minimalist. If you’re looking to invest, basic black and chestnut brown blazers like those from Acne Studios, Alberta Ferretti, Givenchy, and Nanushka will never go out of style.

Fun Clothes for Fun Times

I don’t know about you, but I miss getting dressed… liked dressed dressed. And apparently, so do most designers.

Here’s hoping that come fall, we’ll be fully vaccinated and able to give the coming season’s neon colors, fringe trims, floral appliques, and jewel embellishments the nights out they rightfully deserve.

Though the world still feels far from normalcy, the recent runways showed an overwhelming sense of optimism for the coming months. Hoping for the best but preparing for the worst, fall’s most exciting fashion trends translate equally as well on camera. Now that “keyboard up dressing” is the new norm at work, decorative necklines, dramatic puff sleeves, and statement jewelry are here to stay.

All-Over Embellishments

If 2020 taught us anything, it was to cherish the little things we’d previously taken for granted: movie theaters, bottomless brunches, first dates, shopping trips. This season, designers offered extra-special daytime clothes fit for celebrating these everyday life moments. At Carolina Herrera, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, and Gabriela Hearst rainbow-colored jewel embellishments and floral appliques elevated otherwise simple LBDs and matching sets.

Sequin Dresses

When it’s time to go out again, you better be prepared to go all out. In preparation for our return to the dancefloor, designers stitched sequins onto everything from sexy evening gowns to miniskirts to everyday tees.

Sequin dresses, in particular, were seen at Alberta Ferretti, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Prabal Gurung, and Stella McCartney. Chances are you’ll be seeing the sparkly filter seen at Ashish all over your favorite influencers’ feeds come fall.

Novelty Buttons

Boring buttons are a thing of the past. This season, simple dresses and blazers were elevated by decorative buttons, pearls, and oversized embellishments. At Louis Vuitton and Schiaparelli, novelty buttons reflected the deeper themes of the collection. While at Tory Burch, they simply added interest to an otherwise simple frock.

H2T Neon

If you’d asked me immediately after Saint Laurent’s glow-in-the-dark Fall/Winter 2019 runway show if neon colors would still be on-trend two years later, I would have said no. And I would have been wrong.

Despite the predictions of fashion critics (myself included), neon trends have outlasted everyone’s expectations. At Versace and Balmain, monochrome neon looks brought life to the end of a long show and jazzed-up otherwise simple dresses and sweaters. At Vetements, neon loungewear offered a hypebeast-friendly version of basic sweats.

Images c/o Vogue Runway

Sarah Maberry